Old City of Jerusalem: Exploring Religious Traditions and History

For centuries Jerusalem has drawn pilgrims and visitors of many faiths, and that is still the case today. Even for those who do not consider themselves believers, the city offers an unrivaled glimpse into the history, architecture and modern-day practice of Judaism, several denominations of Christianity, as well as Islam. 

One way to start to understand the Old City of Jerusalem, built over centuries in overlapping layers of alleyways and stone buildings, is to think of it as having four quarters: The Jewish Quarter, the Armenian Quarter, the Christian Quarter and the Muslim Quarter. These divisions are not scientific, as both the history and the current population often crosses or overflows from one area into another. But it is a guide that can help visitors discover and navigate the Old City, and its religious history and culture.

The Christian Quarter 

Located just north of the Jaffa Gate, one of the main entrances that many visitors and tourists use to enter the Old City of Jerusalem, the Christian Quarter is home to  many churches, monasteries and other institutions belonging mostly to the Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches. 

• The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a sprawling complex built and rebuilt over more than 1,700 years is one of the main attractions in Jerusalem, and includes several churches, chapels and monasteries, representing multiple denominations. The complex also contains an underground chamber that many Christians revere as the burial place of Jesus. Each night, there is a small ceremony to close the main door of the complex, which is locked by two local Muslim families, who for generations have guarded the keys, to prevent competition and feuding among the various Christian groups.

• The Via Dolorosa, or trail of sorrows, which contains each of the traditional “Stations of the Cross,” outlining the journey of Jesus’ death, ends inside the Holy Sepulchre. Several of the other stations, often marked by chapels or churches, are also located in this quarter, although the trail starts inside the Muslim Quarter.

• The Muristan, today an open plaza that is filled with cafes and shops, was once the site of a hospital during the Crusades; ruins of that hospital have recently been uncovered under the modern-day plaza. Nearby stands the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer, built to serve an influx of European pilgrims in the 19th century and the Church of St. John the Baptist, which features a silver dome and dates back to the 5th century, making it one of the oldest churches in the city. This is also where the 12th century mosque of Omar stands, named for and marking the place where the caliph prayed during a conquest of Jerusalem, in order to not enter the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, allowing it to remain a place for Christians.

The Armenian Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem 

If one enters the Jaffa Gate and heads south rather than North to the Chiristan Quarter, one ends up in the Armenian Quarter. Armenians first came to Jerusalem in the fourth century CE, after their country adopted Christianity as its official religion. While they also have a presence in the Holy Sepulchre church, the quarter named for them contains several other churches, religious and cultural buildings.  

• The  Helen and Edward Mardigian Armenian Museum of Jerusalem is located in a 200-year-old restored seminary. The museum houses an ancient floor mosaic, moved from another church elsewhere in Jerusalem, as well as collections of manuscripts and other exhibits telling the story of the Armenian community.  

• The Cathedral of St. James, with its walls made of hand-painted blue and white tiles and lit by dozens of ornate oil lamps hanging from the ceilings, is open to visitors daily. 

• The quarter contains several shops selling colorful tiles and other ceramic pieces, painted in the Armenian style. This handiwork is now one of the signature features of Jerusalem, with many tiled street signs in the Old City made by Armenian artists. In the nearby Christian Quarter, visitors to Jerusalem Pottery, owned by an Armenian family for several generations, can paint their own tiles.

The Jewish Quarter

With large areas rebuilt after the 1967 Six Day War, the Jewish quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem is a striking combination of old and new. The main attraction is the Western Wall, drawing Jewish and others to touch and pray near the large stone wall that once surrounded the Temple. Many visitors leave notes with prayers and hopes tucked in between the ancient stones.

There are a number of historical synagogues, reflecting the long and diverse Jewish history of the city. 

• The Hurva Synagogue, on the Jewish Quarter’s main square, was originally built in the 1700s and features a large dome and a rooftop gallery that offers sweeping views of the city. 
• One complex hosts four Sephadic synagogues, each one unique in its decor and architecture. But all are located below street level to comply with Ottoman-era laws that forbade buildings taller than any mosque. Today all remain active synagogues. 
• The Cardo is a Roman-era street that is lined with modern galleries and shops as well as other archaeological sites. 
• There are also several museums, including the Davidson Center, which contains an outdoor archaeological park; the Wohl Museum, an underground complex that features ruins of luxurious villas; and the Burnt House, which tells the story of a Jewish family during the Roman siege of the city.

The Muslim Quarter

Known for its colorful markets, the Muslim Quarter sits between the Christian and Jewish Quarters and is entered through the grand Damascus Gate. In the main covered market streets, one can find some of the city’s best street food, from fresh pomegranate juice to hummus to knafe, a sweet cheese pastry.

• The main Islamic landmarks in this area of the Old City of Jerusalem are the tiled Dome of the Rock and the Al Aqsa Mosque with its smaller grey stone dome. The Cotton Merchants Gate at the end of an area that once served as a market for cotton and fabrics is an ornate gate that serves as a main entrance for Muslims to the mosque area. This area is also home to the historic Turkish baths of al-Ayn and al-Shifa, built in the Mamluk era. 
• This quarter of the city also contains Chrisitan and Jewish historical sites. The Austrian Hospice, near the Damascus Gate, offers stunning views from its rooftop, as well as a historical chapel. The Terra Sancta SBF Archaeological Museum in the Monastery of the Flagellation contains archaeological artifacts from several sites around the Holy Land. The “Kotel Ha Katan,” or Little Western Wall, is a Jewish holy site that consists of the continuation of the famous Western Wall, also located in this quarter, tucked in an alleyway off Al Wad Street, also called Haggai Street.

FAQs

What are the main sites in the Old City of Jerusalem? There are many historical, religious and archaeological sites, but the most popular are the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Dome of the Rock mosque. The Cardo, the Four Sephardic Synagogues and the Hurva Synagogue are also popular.

What can you do in the Old City of Jerusalem? The city contains many religious and historical sites as well as museums like the Tower of David and other smaller museums. Other activities include walking along the tops of the Old City walls and workshops to paint Armenian pottery.

Do you need to take a tour of the Old City of Jerusalem? No, one can explore the Old City on their own, with the Tourist Office just inside the Jaffa Gate offering maps and other information about sites. But a guided tour can add to the experience. Many travel companies, tour guides and the Tower of David Museum offer tours of the Old City.