Mahane Yehuda Market on a Friday

On Fridays, the start of the weekend in Israel, Mahane Yehuda market is not just a place to shop for food. It is an experience, one of the best attractions in Jerusalem. Even those who do not plan on buying anything should plan at least a walk through the lively central outdoor market.

The Mahane Yehuda market began in the 1880s as regular gatherings of farmers selling their goods from the countryside. It grew along with the city over the decades, reflecting the diversity of its foods and its people. Today it is the culinary gem of Jerusalem, filled with restaurants, bars, cafes and specialty shops along with the traditional bakeries, food and produce stands. It is also the place where Jerusalemites from all sorts of different backgrounds do their weekly shopping. 

With many families preparing large meals to mark the Jewish sabbath on Friday night and Saturday, Mahane Yehuda market is especially busy on Fridays. Shop and stall-owners prepare for these crowds, stocking mountains of fresh inventory so they can meet the demand. This is the day to find the largest varieties of fruits and vegetables, baked goods and prepared foods. From tourists staying in a hotel in Jerusalem to those looking to make a home-cooked meal, a Friday morning visit is always a great idea.

Challah: The Base of a Sabbath Meal

Along with wine, on which Jews recite the Friday night blessing to bring in shabbat, bread is a main component of the meal. It is often served on a special platter and only eaten after diners wash their hands and recite a blessing. No other food is consumed until after the bread. For many Jews the most common type of sabbath bread is challah, made from strands of dough braided together and baked. In some cases the challah is as sweet as cake and contains additional ingredients like raisins, nuts or seeds. 

On Fridays, there are dozens of places selling fresh challah in the Mahane Yehuda market. One standout is Pe’er Bakery, located on Etz Hayyim Street, one of the main covered thoroughfares of the market. From fluffy sweet challah topped with sticky honey to rich whole wheat, this bakery offers a variety of fresh flavors, often hot from the oven. Other bakeries worth visiting for challah include Teller, which makes delicious sourdough-based challah and Duvshanit, a classic baker on the shuk’s main outdoor street. The truth is dozens of stalls overflow with fresh challah and other breads on Friday, so one cannot go wrong simply wandering the market.

Where to Find Salads, Spices and Snacks in the Mahane Yehuda Market

Many Jeruslaem tables serve dips and salads along with the challah, turning the bread into an entire course. While hummus is one of the most popular dips, a walk through the market opens up a whole world of other salads to enjoy with bread. One of the most popular places to shop for salads is Tzidkiyahu, which also offers a nearby shop with cheeses. Azura and Rahmo, both on HaEshkol Street in the traditional Iraqi section of the market, are both good places to sit down to enjoy hummus with pita during a Friday visit, or to take food to go.

Other items not to miss include olives, grape leaves stuffed with rice, and kubeh – fried dumplings filled with meat. These can be picked up and snacked on during a Friday visit, or taken home for later.

Spices and other items, like nuts, seeds and teas are also a highlight of the market. Make sure not to miss Ben David Spices on HaEgoz Street and Mizrachi Pitzuchim on HaShaked Street for any of these products.

The best desserts for Shabbat–or anytime in Mahane Yehuda market

Like any festive meal, Shabbat feasts usually include desserts. The market is a good place to find cakes, cookies, candies and other treats. Along the market’s outdoor streets, candy shops overflow with a variety of chocolate and colorful gummies, especially popular with children. Numerous bakeries offer a variety of cakes. One of the most unique cakes is the kurtoskalacs, or Hungarian chimney cake, made from yest dough and flavored with cinnamon or chocolate, and cooked on a spit over an open fire or in an oven. In recent years a few bakeries specializing in these have opened in the market.

In addition to cakes and cookies, halva is a must-try. Made from sweetened sesame paste, halva can be eaten like candy. At Halva Kingdom, a well-established institution in the Mahane Yehuda market, halva is sold by the kilo in a variety of flavors: chocolate, hazelnut, vanilla and more. This store and others are often handing out free samples to the crowds on Fridays.

FAQs

When is Mahane Yehuda market open? 

The market is open daily from about 7 a.m. Most food and produce shops and stalls close around 7 p.m.  But some, as well as all the market’s numerous restaurants, cafes and bars, stay open late into the night. On Fridays, the market closes by an hour before shabbat, with some vendors going home earlier.

Where is Mahane Yehuda market?

The market runs along the south side of Jaffa street, stretching down to Agripas Street. It is not far from the central downtown area and the central bus and train stations.

What can you buy in Mahane Yehuda market?

You can buy nearly everything in this market, from groceries to housewares to specialty food items. The market area also has dozens of restaurants, cafes and bars.

Is Mahane Yehuda market expensive?

The answer is that it depends on what you buy, and where you buy it. The stalls and shops range from budget-oriented to high-end.

Are there tours of Mahane Yehuda market?

Yes, several companies offer tours of the market. These include companies like Yalla Basta, to tour guides like Fun Joel’s Israel Tours, Travel with Dafna and others..